I surf because…
… it's how my heart tells my to live.
I used this phrase from the Billabong advertisement because it’s an accurate description of this sport and lifestyle. This year on our Portugal Surf Trip we changed to Shortboards, began to catch the first better waves, had a couple of the worst wipeouts ever and on our adventure we were accompanied by our windsurf guru Kahuna Kiki, Irina, and in the other car Tamara and Trevoro.
This year we accomplished our surf trip to Portugal in our usual style, which includes a ton of suicidal wipeouts, waves from 2 to 4 meters, two broken boards in the first two days, with car burglaries and a robbery at the beach, lost luggage, bumps in the car door, purchase of a new board which in the end was broken in transport by AirFrance. Also, we were almost late for all planes, including that we missed the only plane for which we came on time and waited at the gate for 4 hours, the plane from Paris to Zagreb. The mystery remains. And it seems that a 100 people boarded the plane beside us and we did not even notice.
Yet despite all these situations, the important moments in the water remain, those breathtaking moments, the energy, the flow of the ocean, all the wonderful things that breathe and live in it and beyond. Because of that this is the king of all sports.
Our trip took us from Lisbon, Ericeira over to Peniche. These are some frozen moments of the trip.
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| We started in Paris..in the city of those in love.. |
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| A nice start and a clean car..and of course, Superbock beer.. |
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| The crew.. |
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| In Ericeira, with our good friend Nelson from the Sunset Bamboo Bar. Here we rented boards. |
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| This time we changed to shortboards. They are smaller, lighter, weaker but more flexible for driving and maneuver. However, we've done it and got used to it. |
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| The second day, a fatal wave sucked me in and after a suicidal wipeout, back and hip pain, an eternity under water, it threw me out with the board in half. |
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| Also this year we ate and slept anywhere. At the exit from every small town is an offer of miles and miles of beaches and cliffs that can be used as a warm home. Most of these images are from Peniche which was our starting point for everything. |
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| In this case, we slept in desert dunes between Baleal and Peniche. The penalty for the driving and walking on the dunes is between 249.40 and 29,927.87 euros. :) A luxurious and expensive accommodation. And then someone would say that we were like bums. Hah.. |
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| Irina would clean and tidy up the car. :) |
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| Baleal and Peniche are a Surf Mecca. All signs are arranged exactly like this. :) |
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| A walk around the cliffs of Peniche. The dramatic landscape and the cliffs are insane. During storms the waves rise up to an epic scale and you need to look for Overwash Ocurrence. |
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| Peniche is a surfing and fishing village. So people not surfing are probably fishermen. In this case, in a small hidden cove fishermen are helping each other with the boats before heading into the ocean. |
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| A few pics from the water.. |
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| With our good friends Hélia and Maurício at the best bar Xacra Beach Bar next to the famous surf spots Supertubos and Mohle Leste. After a week of canned food from Lidl and ten pounds of preservatives, we received a warm Portuguese fish soup and chicken in various sauces. Thank you Hélia and Maurício, you saved our lives. :) |
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This event we witnessed last year. It’s a freshman year initiation all over Portugal. For one whole month everybody is drunk and is playing different games. In addition, the older guys (those dressed in black suits) oppress and belittle the freshmen. In this example, they had to bathe in a fountain, after which they were sprinkled with flour, and a mixture of tomato juice, mustard, water, eggs, and all kinds of shit. After that they break eggs in their hair. After a month, if you do not get liver cirrhosis or severe mental trauma, you continue to study. :) Unbelievable, but the folks are proud of this and they accept it as a nice and normal tradition. |
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Photo by © Irina Maksimović
Also this year the Rip Curl Pro Surf Contest was held in Peniche. |
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Photo by © Irina Maksimović
The waves surprised the viewers and washed out the first few rows. :) |
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Photo by © Irina Maksimović
One of the best surfers in the world, Taj Burrow. |
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Photo by © Irina Maksimović
11 time world champion, Kelly Slater. |
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| Obidos, drinking Ginja, the local cherry liquor served in chocolate cups which you eat. |
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| In the end we still ended up as bums. At the airport Charles de Gaulle, a labyrinth and a jungle at daylight, and the city of bums at night. As we missed the flight at the gate, without baggage, and food and money, we stole a couple of cardboard from a bum, picked up newspaper from the garbage, and made a small home. |
In addition, for those who want to see a
really stupid surf trip movie..
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